Dørålen : The Autumn Queen Meets King Winter In Rondane

To be able to experience wild, rugged mountains covered with fresh snow hand in hand with yellow, autumn birches has been almost like a dream situation, a fantasy scape since I saw an impressive print many, many years ago of a photographer I do not remember the name of and the location of scenery just as unknown. Recalling that image always made me smell the early morning frosted foliage, the distant, echoing sound of a river somewhere out of sight, fog chased by the mornings first light and…to be able to hear my own inner voice clear as a mountain stream. I was a young boy then and would never imagined that I myself someday would become a passionate mountain hiker and photographer. If someone had suggested it though, I would probably laugh and think it would be boring and a quite meaningless waste of a lot of time. That was then.

Autumn Birches In Steep Mountain Wall In Vinstra © Seung Kye Lee

Today, thinking about that young boy seems as distant as if visualizing myself as a future photographer back then. Well, what can I say? “We never stop to learn“; was exactly what I uttered lying curled up halfway down a very steep ridge where I wanted a quick (read: lazy) descent back from the mountains down into the valley where the tracks was covered in a fine layer of fresh snow instead of choosing the longer, but safer route down. If I had slipped on the outside of the rugged path I would have rolled or slid all the way down to the bottom before I would be able to utter anything at all. *the path (not visible because of snow and long distance) is on the foreground ridge to the right in the image “King Winter“. I don`t know exactly how high it is, but the seemingly tiny trees in the bottom can be used for visual reference.

During my 5 hour drive to the northern parts of Rondane National Park I had no clue about the awesome, shining autumn splendor that was waiting for me in Dørålen Valley. The landscapes of Dørålen Valley is remarkably evident of how the meltwater formed it`s features at the end of the ice age and is very much visited by norwegians, as well as foreign tourists every year. Dørålen Valley is also probably the most photographed places in Rondane, especially in autumn due to it`s impressive mountains sceneries above a beautiful valley of White Birches that turns all gold and yellow. Rondane Nasjonalpark is the oldest national park in Norway, establ. 21 Dec. 1962. and is an important habitat for herds of wild reindeer. The national park covers an area of 963 km² (372 sq mi) and contains ten peaks above 2000m. (6560 ft.). Please note that parking your car at the wrong place can cost you. Earlier this year, a photographer was fined 10 000 NKR. (ca. 1800 USD) for parking at the wrong spot. He later mentioned in an article in Biofoto (nature photography magazine) about the national park-restrictions and that if he had not written a formal letter to the The Directorate for Nature Management about how bad the parking information really is in Dørålen, the fine would probably cost him 20 000 NKR. (ca. 3500 USD). So, I was very careful to park my car where I would not be fined and I too noticed the lack of local parking information, as many have before me. I sincerely hope The Directorate for Nature Management will produce a better information system, much more visible and present, that makes those who visit sure of where it is allowed to park. The benefits would be great for many parts and should not be the hardest thing to do. So, if you go there, do make sure you park your car legally.

Anyway, my scheduled autumn trip this year was quite delayed due to a number unfortuneate events.  The autumn foliage would now be almost, if not entirely, over by now I thought. Therefore, I was very surprised upon arrival to see the glowing autumn foliage being still present. And, when it started to snow gently my first night there l wished that it would actually snow enough to cover some of the mountains and peaks. My wish was heard.

The morning after, I woke up 3 in the morning and it had stopped snowing. In the faint moonlight I could just make out the fresh, mountain snow casting a deep blue luminance towards me while the deep valley below was almost untouched by the snow. That was the start of 3 fantastic days and nights in Dørålen.

King Winter © Seung Kye Lee

- First snow on Skranglehaugan (glacial landforms) and Smedhamran Mountain (1849 m.). Skranglehaugan is a collection of mounds and ridges that formed under the inland ice in Dørålen Valley. A small part of Dørålen River is visible in the bottom of the valley. Viewed from the northern side of Dørålen Valley.

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Every Moment Counts © Seung Kye Lee

- Luminous sunrise and morning fog at Stygghøin Mountain (1721 m.).

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Ice Age Castles © Seung Kye Lee

 - Looking towards Høgronden (2118 m.), Midtronden (2060 m.), Digerronden (2016 m.) and Smedhamran (1849 m.) mountains from Dørålen Valley. In the midground are terraces that were deposited along the ice border at Dørålsetra and along the valley side farther east as the inland ice continued to melt. I think it very much resembles human made structures from ancient times.

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Mystic Mountan Light © Seung Kye Lee

- First light through morning fog at Smedhamran Mountain (1849 m.).

To view the images larger in better resolution, visit my website!

I felt so lucky on my return home, when the weather forecast confirmed more snow that soon buried the valley too in fresh snow. My timing was lucky and perfect and I had an unforgettable experience…as I always do in Rondane. For the first time I witnessed The Autumn Queen meet King Winter. Right place at the right time. Sometimes our dreams come true.

More photographs from this trip will be posted later.

This December I will spend some time in south-eastern Rondane working on a project that I hope to be finished summer 2010. More on that later.

Seung Kye